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Chapter 3

Thursday: Tour to Lefkimmi

Not to be too lazy we have to undertake something once again. It is recommended to go to the south of the island with the "green bus" which rides far down to the southernmost town Kavos. The travel guide tells that this is the British Ballermann and everyone confirms that there is much tourism. So we decide to visit the biggest village of the southern island: Lefkimmi.

Lefkimmi "at the river"
On the tour we pass nice countrysides, mainly olive groves. It is to be heard that there are some problems concerning the harvest of olives. The people use black nets which are spread out at the ground. The collection of the olives is a heavy work and too hard for the older people. But the younger emigrate or are too expensive. So the future is insecure.


Fischer und Tamarisken
Sometimes we see the sea at the other (western) coast. We pass two original villages named Argirades and Perivoli. At Lefkimmi we leave the bus at the bridge of the river Himaros. And it is very scenic around there, picturesque fisher boats as promised by the catalogues. On the other hand there are few tourists, and if you see one he may be a half naked gentleman. We are receipted by a friendly dog which looks like a setter. He accompanies us at our walk around. We walk along the river, there is a church, a graveyard and gardens with chicken houses. Two fishermen lie in their boats on the river and untangle their nets.

We go back, cross the bridge and enter a picturesque small square. We sit down and argue about two little linen sacks hanging out of a window. We suppose yoghurt or goat cheese in them. We continue towards some gardens and have a probe of the blossoms of a mulberry tree. Another olive grove, and then a man on a donkey comes up, his wife toddling behind. The locals seem to have never heard something about emancipation.

We find ourselves at the place in front of the church. There is a fine tavern with shaded seats and tables under the leafs of vine. Jonathan is in form and has no linguistic problems with the locals, who as usual are grouped together in the tavern to discuss and decide about the world's future. The main communication tool is laughter, and soon some older gentlemen with wrinkled and tanned faces sit around us. Jonathan gets a chain of small glassballs like a rosary (known as comboloi), which every Greek has with him to relax the nervous hands and fingers.

Meanwhile I have climbed up the stairs to the church for a nice view down to the village. As we have finished our Greek coffee we head for the bridge at the river and await the 12 o'clock bus. We have to wait a long time, after half an hour the bus comes up and we can go back for an enjoyable afternoon.

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