Usedom at September 2003

Chapter 1  Album1
Chapter 2 Album2

Is there anywhere a place on earth where we can relax, do nothing and take a dog with us? And have a swim in the sea and consume fish as much as we want? Of course there is one and we know it well. At first some more members of our family wanted to come with us, but finally we are three: Heidi, Otto and I.

At first let us introduce Otto:

"My name is Otto and I am a Beagle. Beagles tend to be difficult to be educated so I will try to behave as well. In spite of that I like to have holidays either. Surely I will meet lots of other dogs. I like them if they are female but at male dogs I mostly get excited. At our destination there is a male dog, a mixture from Chow-Chow and Spitz. His name is Paul. Moreover he is black. So I see black as well."

Hallo, I am Otto...

...and I am Paul

So we three sit in our car on Saturday morning and start at 8.30 am, two bicycles on the roof and Otto behind the back seat. We reach Berlin without problems and then go north with many construction sites at the Autobahn. As it is absolutely impossible to stop with the car Otto undertakes an expedition towards the driver and I hardly can avoid that he keeps the lordship of the steering-wheel. At last I feel a hot breath behind my neck until we can stop at the next rest place. It would be better to install a solid grid at the backseat similar to those of the vehicles of prisons.

Kirche in Usedom

Kirche in Usedom

Anklamer Tor in Usedom

After we got lost on side roads for a while and mastered a traffic jam at the uncompleted bridge in Anklam we reach the island Usedom as usual at the village Usedom and traditionally stop at this place for a walk. The attractions of this village are a big brickstone church, a city gate (Anklamer Tor), the market place and the narrow lanes and houses, finally the harbour. It is to be read that they have big plans to build up a "Marina". This is a support center for sailors with restaurant, shops, toilettes and lavatories.

So we enjoy the (still) scenic atmosphere and then let us pull back to the car by Otto. Now it is only a short distance to Stubbenfelde and Koelpinsee where we leave the main road at the campground which is alive again. We have made the 500 km in about 6 hours. At the Teufelsberg we get out of the car and Otto can use the next birch tree to lift up his leg.

There is a saga about the Teufelsberg:

A clubfooted shoemaker once was federated with the devil and lived near the beach. At night he strolled around to meet his companions. Nobody knew what they did there, only some noise was to be heard. At one night there were strange flashes and loud thunderbolts. Since then the shoemaker and all his belongings have disappeared. Only the Teufelsberg and the Teufelskuhle are reminiscences of these activities.

May be there were similar phenomenons in the skies some time ago - but we think this was at Peenemünde...

Der 99 cm Aal


Now we must ring the bell to meet Anke who is somewhat sleepy because her work starts at 4 am in the night at the campground of Ückeritz. So we all stand on a good cup of coffee. Achim soon comes back from some soccer activities. So after seven years we are happy to meet again and convince each other that he just look like at that time. Meanwhile Otto sits in the garden until we hear noisy fight sounds. The dog Paul has detected the stranger in his garden and now things must be rearranged. All the other dogs in the neighbourhood seem to applaude by barking so we must interrupt this festival as fast as we can. Let us tell you in advance: we will keep a security distance of at least 20 m between the dogs in the future.

We then settle in our apartment with refrigerator, cooking facilities, toilet and showers - all built in during the last 7 years. So we feel quite comfortable. But then we must go out immediately and look for the beach. As a protection for the shores they have splashed some dunes and planted certain grass on them. The once somewhat breezy house looks solid again.

In the village of Kölpinsee one can see that money has come over it. There are a lot of new houses, restaurants and shops. The most accommodations are still booked. The old baker's shop still exists (that is for tomorrow). We have our dinner in the Stranddistel and I start with Matjes, let us see what fish-meals will await us. Heidi starts with a bacon and potato ommelette.

Steilufer, Strand und See

At last I have a nice evening walk with Otto above the cliff, which is about 40-50 m high. The highest cliff with 60 m is at the nearby Streckelsberg. Otto doesn't suffer from acrophobia. But at the airy stairs with transparent grids which lead just down to the dog's beach he is not willing to overcome. So we will have to climb down the cliff in the future.



Now let us introduce the early-morning duties: get the rolls from the baker (later campground) and go out with Otto for his morning-bush-activity. Thereafter we have breakfast. Today we go to the beach because the weather is fine. As I have told we have to climb down the cliff and the stairs are not convenient. It is strongly forbidden to climb at other areas of the cliff because they would be damaged contrary to any coast protection. We look for a nice sink in the sand where there is not so much wind, aside a trunk to fix the dog-lead. This is necessary because Otto vituperates (stänkert) towards every dog passing by.

So it is recommended to take a longer walk. This ends at the next stairs at the Reha Klinik "Ostseeblick" near Ückeritz. Then there are too many dogs ahead and we better go back. After one hour we are back at our beach nest and are somewhat more even.tempered now. We twinkle in the sun and find the beginning of our holidays just as we have imagined to be. There is one disadvantage of this section of the beach under the cliff: the sun disappears about 2 pm. behind the trees above, and then it gets cool. We go back and eat some meatballs with potatoes and vegetables. Otto goes asleep and we look for a still sunny spot on the beach. This is to be found between the beach-baskets. For the evening we buy a portion of Butterfish at the smokehouse.




Back in the garden Otto is allowed by the host to stroll around at the land surrounded by a fence. "He cannot escape here" he says. One minute later we hear a woman yelling at the street. "What's about this dog?" she cries and we are running to the fence. And we just see the high lifted white tail of Otto disappearing around the next corner. Immediately I run behind him and soon catch him. May be he has crawled out to the world of freedom under the garden-gate. The evening-walk is cancelled today. In the TV there is a Pilcher film (as usual unclear heritage, untrue lovers, broken engagements, at last misunderstandings but two of the actors find their love to each other - sniff).


Since now we get the rolls from the shop at the campground because it is nearer. The rolls should be ordered one day before. A woman in front of me orders: "Two double rolls and two rolls with mixed corn". "OK, two twins two corns" the grocer cuts short. As it is my turn I say "Two twins two corns" and so feel like an old stager  (alter Hase). We go back across the
campground where the nomads commute between the shop, toilets and their mobile home, carrying the toilet box in one hand and the bag with rolls in the other.

We go to the beach as yesterday, have a walk and the lie lazy in the sun. After some time a big black dog comes along and Otto is very excited. And just a hard jerk and the dog-lead breaks. Now Otto runs as fast as he can towards this black  beast. I have never jumped into my bathing suit as rapid (this is usually not necessary hereabout). As I arrive at the cockpit things have completely settled. Otto immediately has recognized his limits and now stands by the sea. If he could he surely inconspicously would whistle a melody. As we go back the risen heads of the neighbours sink down again - we soon will be well known around here - we think.

Fortunately we have a spare-lead  and from now on have peace except as the ice-car arrives, which seems to be a strange appearance too. We leave with the sun and in the afternoon cower among the beach-baskets. We get some sprats from the fish-shop and chewing we observe a group of kids uniformed by equal bathing caps. A big man gives the Bay-Watcher with a megaphone. "Do not approach the groynes (Buhnen)" he shouts. At last they all must come out because they have blue lips or the jitters (Tatterich).

As we come home we find out that Otto prefers as his favourite place the red sofa and we will have some work to remove the hair of his fur.

In the evening we continue our exploration along the cliff and succeed to reach the campground Ückeritz. There we can go to the beach and return at the seaside. At last - it is nearly dark - we climb up the cliff and as we jump up the edge there stands like a phantom a huge boarhound (Dogge). And what is Otto's turn? He looks aside and inconspicously looks for some interesting smells in the bushes.


The weather stays to be fine. Before we start for the beach we have to admire Achim's yielded catch of fish. There is a big eel, 99 cm long they say. Moreover a very big Zander - bigger than ever. So the obligatory hunter's photographs are shot. We order two smoked eels and a flounder which will wait at the evening for us.

At the beach there is not so much new. We get known to a small dog named Sally. This is so kind to anyone and barks and waggs its tail in highest delight. The couple belonging to Sally live at the campground and soon we involuntarily hear this and that about diseases and surgeries. The man doesn't care to jump around without clothes in spite of various cannulas and bags sticked on his skin. Let us be thankful that we don't have such problems.

Knüppelweg um den Kölpinsee

In the afternoon  Otto and I start an attempt to explore the mysterious path around the Kölpinsee. This begins at a meadow and then is paved by rotten planks and a fence. We better return as we observe two deers and group of ladies from Saxony, which is to be heard by their slang. So it was somehow exciting again for Otto and me.

Knüppelweg um den Kölpinsee

In the evening we enjoy the eel and the flounder - with toast and butter, so finally we cannot do anything more, esp. eating some more eel.

Kölpinsee Panorama


Today we have rain. This would be fine for our garden at home but during your holidays you think in a different way of it. As we come back with the rolls Otto and I are completely soaked and have to be dried with a towel. After breakfast we ride to Wolgast by car. We have three things to do: a new necklace for Otto, money from the bankomat and one-way-shavers. After some traffic jams we arrive at the bridge over the Peene at 12.37 am. From a signpost is to be read that the bridge will be closed at 12.40.  Then the carriage way will be pulled up to let some ships pass. Some people under umbrellas wait already for this spectaculum. We just succeed to slip through before the traffic light turns to be red.

The cost-free parking place is a t the Fischmarkt. The old town of Anklam with its narrow streets is not so romantic if it is raining. We ask for a pet shop and then buy a steel necklace for Otto to ensure, that at future bungee-attempts no accident occurs. The old necklace would soon break - we think.

Am Achterwasser in Loddin


The bankomat does not work - the Server is down. We must ask for a difficult route to another bank office. In the afternoon we go to the Achterwasser once again and take some photos of the pedal boats disguised as plastic swans. In the evening the sun shines for a while and we even observe a sunset at the Kölpinsee.


Some rain yet so will go to the Polenmarkt at Swinemünde resp Swinoujscie. Now we cannot find the identity card of Heidi. Perhaps we can pass the border with a provisional permit? As usual there is a traffic jam until we reach the parkingsite at the border. Then we enter the passport control. "My wife has no identity card with her" I say anxiously. The answer is short and lapidary: "Then you cannot pass". "So you cannot pass" I say to Heidi. In consequence of this fact she resigns and enters the imbiss restaurant nearby, toilets 50 cents.

I myself cross the border to get some cigarettes. And now all people look at the other side of the street - so do I. There is just a couple clothed in hunter's costume and with the beard of the chamois at their hats coming back from Poland. The man carries a bulky bag on his shoulder and something black looks out of the bag. Did they shot any game or something like that? Really, it is the head of a tusker (Keiler) - but, be careful, it is made of plastic and it's destination may be the front garden of those people. So everyone around has his fun.

The Polish market is not far from the border. I have a quick look to the products like textiles, sport suits, jackets, shoes, CDs or goods and drinks. At the side of the street someone just buys the complete amount of marone mushrooms. This could have been a deal for me but I am too late. 20 minutes later I am back with the cigarettes where Heidi with horror stares to the chicken meal opposite of her table in the imbiss restaurant.

Uhr an der Seebrücke in Ahlbeck

Seebrücke Ahlbeck

We soon are out of this etablissement and ride back to Ahlbeck. Here they have built and rebuilt lots of elegant estates. We look for some typical names of hotels, pensions or restaurants and find some which would be difficult to find out with a constricted phantasy: Sea-Terrace, Hotel Baltic Sea, Hotel starfish (Seestern), Sea-View, Sea-Castle, Villa Aquamarina. The best of all is : "House by the Sea".

Back home we have no beach weather today. So we all make the expedition around the Kölpinsee on the
planked path. We succeed to come through without broken ankles or feet. As we return Anke has given a surprise to us. She comes along with Bärbel who has come for a visit from Berlin. "We won't see us otherwise" she says. So at last we have to go shopping to ensure a festive evening. And we have it and are so happy to meet again after those years.

Drei Grazien

Eine Grazie

Zwei Grazien

After we had breakfast all together we start for a cycle tour to Heringsdorf. You should know, that the long distance cycle path "Ostsee" is just at the front door. Let us estimate that now past the main season there are about 100 cyclists per hour which would be about 1000 cyclists the day. Many of those are one-day-tourers but here are many with baggage as well, others stay over night at the campground.

If you ride towards Ückeritz you soon will be astonished to find a 18% uphill section here. "Cyclists dismount" is to be read and the most of them do so, some even the way downhill. But it is a challenge to climb up there riding in the saddle and to run down without use of the brakes. The last matter is only possible if there are no other passers-by around.

So there are some ups and downs until we reach Heringsdorf. We ride along the promenade with some "lakes" due to the rain last night. It is recommended to be on good terms with the other promenaders to avoid to educate them to cycle-haters. We end at the Seebrücke (pier) Heringsdorf which is said to be the longest of the European continent (so you can argue that there is a longer one in Great Britain). During the next days there will be the Russian sailing ship MIR (so this is not only a space station). You can purchase a round trip then and even climb up to the riggings (Takelage). "Stilettoes are not appropiate" is to be read so this is a valuable information for the visitors.

Baulücke in Bansin...

...aber nicht mehr lange
Some time later we meet the couple with the dog Sally. Soon we find out that they live 30 km from our home. "The world is small" is the usual saying. We then ride back and Heidi detects that the slopes are not so steep as before. In the afternoon we have a walk to the Streckelsberg. Later someone told us that there should be the boletus mushroom (Steinpilz). But just now we do not know anything about this fact so do not suffer under the "mushroom-view". In the evening we meet Bärbel who has seen "thousands of champignons" at the Achterwasser. Bärbel will leave tomorrow and we hope to see her before.

Chapter 2
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